Cutting Fascia

[Ben V]

Good morning everyone...!!!

Just curious if anyone is aware of a small jig saw or handheld cutter to cut hardboard fascia...?

I'm one of those guys that doesn't have the skill to draw up a trackplan so I have all my benchwork up and topped with 2" foam and just landscape as I go. I'd like to put the fascia up and cut it as I go to match the contour but everything I've tried has been less than ideal (A full size sabre saw and a Dremel with a cutting kit: https://www.dremel.com/us/en/p/565-26150565ac.)


Thanks...
Ben

[davefoxx]

I just use a jig saw with a fine-toothed blade. Makes a clean cut that is easily finished with a swipe of a sanding sponge.

What problems are you having?

DFF

[Greg]

As a professional saw dust maker, sabre/jig saw is the best tool for the job. I agree with Dave, sanding sponge is great for taking down the " edge"
Greg

[Ben V]

Hey guys... the sabre saw is doable it's just bulky and as such just makes it a little difficult to get a more precise cut when needed. Was mostly just looking to see if someone had a tool they used or knew off that was a little more "friendlier" if you will...

I looked online but came up empty for a smaller more compact version of a sabre saw. I thought I had remembered seeing a saw that was about the size of a dremel tool with smaller blades.

[davefoxx]

Are you trying to cut the fascia in place? I’d suggest installing it, marking your scenery contours, and taking it down and out of the train room to cut it. I put it on two sawhorses with something like 1”x3” or 2”x 4” stock to support it from sagging while cutting. I like doing this outside, because that hardboard dust is fine and can be messy. I wouldn’t do any significant cutting in place on the layout. I’ve done minor trimming in place but held the wet/dry vac hose up near the blade to suck up whatever dust I could.

As far as a Dremel-like tool, I can’t imagine that being up to the task. YMMV.

Hope this helps,
DFF

[Greg]

You could use a laminate trim router or maybe a roto-zip. Depends how steady your hand is.

Greg

[Russ C]

Hardwood, as in Masonite? It's been a while but as the other guys said, a fine toothed jig saw on a medium/low speed. I also found that masking tape on the smooth side in the approximate cut line minimises chipping.

[alans]

Maybe this? https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/2420-20 I have it and its bigger cousin. The Hackzall is fairly small.

[JerryZ]

I also use 2" foam, and most of my areas where I have foam are dead flat. Here is a post with more info about my benchwork.

https://realisticmodelrailroading.ne...2186#post12186

Since I don't have a table saw (can't justify the cost as I can do most everything with a chop saw), what i do is the following.

For fascia material, I used 1/4" MDF. I had quite a bit to do, so I went over to the local Home Despot and bought a 4x8 sheet of MDF. Since I no longer have a pickup truck, and have to move stuff in my car, I had them saw it at the store into four 2'x4' sections.

Each section will be 4" wide, so you can get six 4" strips out of each 2'x4' section (less the saw blade loss). To rip the material, I use a guide in order to make sure I cut each section straight. A nice straight piece of whatever lumber you have laying around will d0. I had a nice old oak 1x4 that I used. Clamp it to the piece you want to cut with some good clamps. I use steel "C" clamps. Spring loaded clamps really are a hit and miss, sometimes they don't clamp tight enough. Yes, I know from experience.

There are commercial fence guides available. I don't use these, but it is an alternative.

https://www.sawinery.net/best-circular-saw-guide/

Since I use steel stud benchwork, I simply glue and screw the fascia to the steel stud, and the glue secures it to the foam. I secure the fascia with #6 machine screws and #6 bevel washers.

Regards,
Jerry

[john_plsn]

Much of this is repeating what most have said.

I do most cuts on the workbench for stability. The factory cut edge of plywood makes for a good circular saw guide when clamped to the workbench and fascia material. Using a finish blade helps give a nicer cut. If the terrain varies I would clamp it onto the layout and draw it on. Tape it and use a fine wood blade in a jigsaw back at the workbench.

[Ben V]

Sorry for the late reply to this thread, been doing a home improvement project and at the end of the day have little energy left to even play on the computer...

Anyhow, as I was saying in my initial post, and probably did a poor job conveying, I was hoping to just put the oversized fascia pieces on and trim as I go so I could put all the Digitrax panels, card card boxes, paint and curtains up. Being as there is no good tool to do so I'll just have to suck it up and do some planning and figure out the contours so I can cut the fascia out ahead of time.

Thanks y'all...!