89' BSC kit in 1/29

[craigtownsend]

So I got my long awaited 89' flat car finally from Oley Valley. It's a combination of a resin, 3d printed and sheet metal parts to build a 89' Bethlehem Steel Company car.

Overall it's a decent kit from a father and son start up shop that the Dad is trying to keep going after the son's death a couple years ago.

The 3d prints are overall are decent but the resin casting needs a lot of work and looks like the mold needs replacement.

I'll keep a build log here and see how the kit goes.

[craigtownsend]

The more I study the resin casting in this kit, the more I'm getting frustrated with the quality. The mold clearly needs to be replaced! I don't have a photo right now, but the little lip on the centersill bottom is so full of resin bubbles from RTV ripping out due to the undercut, that I might end up sanding off the entire edge and rebuild with styrene strips.

Another issue that is popping up is the resin casting and FDM print (bolster and coupler assembly) has about a 1/8" gap between the casting width and the steel underframe piece that is supposed to attach. I'm not sure if I want to completely ditch the resin casting and build up my own underframe out of styrene, or try and clean it up. At this point I wouldn't be recommending this kit to anyone until the QC gets better. I'm in email contact with the company and am waiting for a response.

I don't expect a high quality commercial grade kit from a cottage industry but I'm getting a bit annoyed with the whole thing instead of being excited.

[craigtownsend]

I'm either really stupid or really smart...

Step one, sanded off the horrible centersill flanges on the resin model. Then glued on .080 x .080 strip to rebuild. Way better and faster than trying to sand all the cast resin bubbles off.

Here comes the what am I thinking part.

I decided well, I might as well scratch build another flat car alongside the kit and see which one turns out better. Grabbed some .125" styrene from the stock, ran down to the hardware store and grabbed some 1/2" steel tube and some 1/2" flat head screws along with a sheet of 16 gauge steel. Countersunk the screws into the styrene, attached the 1/2" tube and started laying out the details. Once the underframe is done, I'll countersink the plate to the styrene and I should have a nice heavyduty flat.

Meanwhile, I can keep building the other one.

[craigtownsend]

I forgot to upload pictures last night. Oops.

Here's the resin bubbles on the centersill that I removed.

Then the new replacement.


My dumb idea...

[Karl]

I have done a couple kits that had the same issue. Only the bubbles feel more ch larger in N. A simple vacuum pot would take care of that in the casting process

[craigtownsend]

Slow progress on this car as I'm diving into proto photos and videos of details while redesigning the end plate. The plan is to use a straight shank coupler so I can get the slack action and the 'fun' crossed knuckles these cars get when you uncouple on a slight curve.
https://www.kadee.com/shop-by-catego...g-coupler-only

Videos such as this have been helpful in looking at details on the underframe, and end beam.
https://youtu.be/WsHzZJWp-Zs?si=SrIo8hIKS8dPX9yM

[Russ C]

It's so frustrating when you outlay money for what's supposed to be a quality kit only to discover you can do better yourself.
Keep at it Craig, I feel that your scratchbuild will be a superior quality to the kit build.

[craigtownsend]

I've been in contact with the company and am trying to help them fix the few problems and make it a better kit. From the emails so far they are willing to listen.

[Russ C]

Well that's good that they're listening to you, hopefully you get something out of this.

[Cody]

That's good of you to follow up with the seller like that. It's great that they're listening, and kudos to you for doing something about the defects that's more productive than online flaming.

[craigtownsend]

The more I watch and study videos of these F89FH flats, the more I get disappointed in the flat car model I bought. I've got some work cut out for me prior to building the kit as a lot of the underframe won't be accessible once it's all assembled. Not just air brake details, and piping, but structural parts that seem to be missing. https://youtu.be/xpS5nYcpR0c?si=KsMofeWR5niB28bs

[craigtownsend]

I don't know if I'm missing something or it's the design of the car but this looks odd.

Here's a screenshot grab from the website vs my car. Every video I've watched shows that are a filled in.

[craigtownsend]

So I'm learning a bit about differences between the 1:1 prototype, the kit, and the production by Oley Valley prior to kit production. I emailed Dave, and he said the open channel is actually prototypical to the BSC cars, and that the initial cars they sent out are prototypically incorrect. Phew. Makes me feel a little better. Also he said there are some slight differences between builders and car numbers. The model represents a RTTX number, while the video I was looking is TTDX number and a different builder. I need to make a decision on what I want to do moving forward with this car. Keep the RTTX number and build as a non cushioned car (which I don't have photo evidence of on the branch) or keep plugging forward on a cushioned drawbar version and modify as needed. I'm leaning toward the modified version already.

Dave suggested I get a copy of "The TTX Story" book that describes some of the changes/builds. I found a copy in the University of Missouri St Louis library and am hoping my local library can Interlibrary Loan request it.

https://eds.p.ebscohost.com/eds/resu...ZzY29wZT1zaXRl

[Karl]

The TTX Story is a 2 book set if I remember correctly. I’ve seen Panza speak at the Chicagoland RPM and his knowledge is amazing… what hitches were used when… when and how decks were patched. The books are an awesome resource.

[craigtownsend]

I was able to get a copy of the 1995 RMC Aug and Sept articles about the F89F flat series which includes a drawing on the car showing brake pipe arrangements and other details.

And, Dave (owner of Oley) also emailed me some scans of drawings of the same series of flats. Not the highest quality, but enough that I can see the parts I need. Lots more work ahead still, but the weather has turned rainy so its workshop building season again.

My goal is to have this car done with the load by next Bridgetown RPM in Oct 2025. I've said that before with other projects. Maybe this winter I'll refocus on rolling stock and locomotive projects vs layout buildings.

[craigtownsend]

Finally doing something productive. I have some old resin castings of brake parts that I'm practicing my #76 drilling on.

First lesson was color contrast. Second was use the hand drill vs the drill press.

Lots of light and used some 2x cheater glasses.