Southern Railway's Slate Fork Branch (N)

[Paul S.]

I had an idea hit me Friday after I got home from work. I let it percolate, and then broke out the paint today.

The extension for the Slate Fork from the main layout to Creek Junction where the L&N enters is on a very narrow shelf. The aisle is 28 inches or so wide. I felt that installing some kind of skirting would make a small space seem even smaller. So in March I painted the area underneath the extension matte black. It has been an off white.

This theater technique (paint black what you don't want the audience to see) worked extraordinarly well. The eye is drawn to the layout, even though it's unfinished, because the black reflects so little light back to the human eye.

But the offwhite above the backdrop still bothered me. Then the thought struck me that even if the backdrop was painted and scenery completed, the offwhite above the layout would still intrude. Something had to changem

So today I painted a 4.5" strip of black above it. The result nicely frames the layout. And the backdrop will really pop once it's completed.

The largish wall section next to my workbench, which was offwhite as well, still needs a second coat. The separation like is a bit ragged in places, as I used blue painters tape rather than green Frog tape. But really, who's going to notice with a scenicked model railroad in front of them?

Black skirting is still needed in some places around the main portion of the layout. But that's a project for another time (see the June Topic of the Month!)

[davefoxx]

For my layout’s skirt, I went the lazy route- a 50’ roll of black landscape fabric that is held up by clothespins hot-glued to the backside of the fascia. 😆

DFF

[Russ C]

That's quite a change in presentation Paul.
As Allen said, even makes the trees more noticeable.
When I first looked at your photos I thought of the shadowbox effect but without the actual shadow box, very effective.

[Paul S.]

You nailed it, Russ C. That's the effect I was aiming to achieve.

Once scenery is completed, the mess of materials atop the shelf unit seen in one of the photos will disappear. And I want to place a curtain rod across the top of the closet space where the workbench is, and hang curtains dyed a similar color to the base color of the backdrop across it. Again the goal is less visual clutter when operating or when visitors are over.

[Michael Whiteman]

Well, that sure seems to be the answer Paul. What a difference! Gutsy move painting the wall black. It'll take about 3 coats of white primer when you sell your condo. Ask me how I know after painting a dark green forest on the wall of my first Sn3 layout. If the ragged edge ever bothers you to the point of a do over move the top edge even with the workroom door but first paint the edge of the tape with the white on the wall. Just along the edge. This will prevent the black from bleeding under the tape. But like you stated........if you're lookin' at the wall you're missing the layout. I like it a lot. 2 thumbs up!

[Paul S.]

Thanks, Michael. I'm thinking just some 1/2" trim painted black and nailed with the brad nailer would be just about as easy. Or dish out $10 for frog tape and extend the band to 5" wide.

[Paul S.]

Perfect, Allen , that's just what I was looking for. Michaels carries it at $2 a yard.

I've considered garden cloth, as davefoxx suggested. And I thought about using dyed canvas drop cloths. But I want something softer and slinkier.

[Allen]

But I want something softer and slinkier.

And maybe something in pink?

[Paul S.]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

[Alan B]

How about a 1950's throwback with black and pink checkerboard?? 12" squares to make it easy!

[Paul S.]

Getting better all the time!

[Paul S.]

Progress continues on the Slate Fork company store. I finished up the handrails tonight. Touching up paint around the stanchions in preparation for a final coat on the foundation tomorrow. Next comes windows, and awning, and final details.



It will be nice to move on from this project.

[Paul S.]

Thank you, Eric! It's getting there. I keep getting distracted.🙂

[Allen]

Well Paul, stop buying brass models and try to focus on N scale! Hmmm?

[Paul S.]

Yessir!😃😃

[Paul S.]

I'm putting a, er, "fork" in this model for now. Apart from figures and additional signage, the Slate Fork company store is done!

Yeah, I hit the acetate windows hard with flat finish, but did so because I'm not fond of the glare and reflection from the overhead lights.

Here are some views:

[Paul S.]

Thank you, Loren. Like Dave Foxx was experiencing, I am not quite content with the mortar lines. But try as I might with Robert's Mortar a couple months ago and again yesterday with lightweight spackle, there's just not enough consistent relief between the individual bricks to get good adhesion.

I might try thinned acrylic paint in places. Or thinned oil paint; that would likely have even less surface tension, so would flow better.

Someone suggested using a pin wash. I think I will look for a grayish-white type.

But for now it's time to add the parking area and surrounding scenery, plus other details. The building easily is removed from the base, should I want to add more details, etc.

[JerryZ]

I'd say you have moved on in grand fashion! It is amazing how weathering makes any of our models "pop".

And yes, the windows look fine.

[Paul S.]

Thanks, Jerry. Allen persuaded me, and without much difficulty, to remove the Dullcote. I'm glad he did.

[Paul S.]

Well, after numerous complaints from the residents of Slate Fork about the opacity of its storefront windows*, the manager of the Slate Fork company store decided an early spring cleaning was in order. The front windows came first:

Hmmm, certainly looks like professionals are still needed. ...

Actually, the windows look better. I just took a microbrush dipped into 50% isopropyl alcohol and cleaned of the Dullcote, then followed up with some very light gray Pan Pastel. I decided a window set that looked as if it had gone through winter rather than through a donut glazer would be more appropriate.

I can foresee a mini-scene in the offing. ...

*Actually a text from Allen.

[Michael Whiteman]

That really turned out nice Paul. I like what you've done on the roof.

[Allen]

Michael Whiteman I noticed that as well, really adds to the building!

[Paul S.]

Thanks, Michael Whiteman and Allen . I'd like to find some appropriate signs to put in the big windows, and will be looking for examples from prototype photos of other company stores. I think I'll add an air conditioner or two as well.

But now it's time to get the parking lot in, build a couple company houses, and that will complete main portion of the layout.

[Paul S.]

I started converting two Woodland Scenics "Country Cottage" kits into suitable company houses for Slate Fork, VA. I knew from the photos online that there'd be some work involved.

When I opened one of the kits, I discovered just how much work.

The window mullions scale out at 6" wide, while the front door would cause anyone taller than 5'-9" to stoop. As if that wasn't bad enough, the die cutters added those unrealistic fillets to every window and door frame. This just wouldn't do.

I broke out the hobby knife and a flat and triangle file, and then set to work. Thankfully the styrene is soft.


Much better! These Tichy parts are just loosely in position, and will be painted white before final installation.

I have three more windows to do on this house, and the front and sides of the other. I won't bother with the rears, because no one will ever see them.

[Paul S.]

Honestly, Allen, this ranks among the worst die cutting I can recall. Not sure what Woodland Scenics was thinking. This doesn't have to be a craftsman kit, but where's the sense of proportionality?

That being said, the roof appears to have reasonably proportional shingles, and the clapboard siding is not too far out of scale, either.

With just a little more attention to detail, WS would have had a very nice kit rated an 8 or so, instead of 6.

[Alan B]

Great fix there! And a much more realistic appearance, but it might have been easier to start with clapboard sheet and do a scratch build. Those Tichy windows do look nice!

[Paul S.]

Thanks, Alan B. Going the clapboard sheet route was a Plan B that I almost implemented. Had the front door and windows not turned out to my satisfaction, I would have. My thoughts were like yours..

[Paul S.]

Tony Koester would use one of his favorite metaphors: "You finally got the memo."

I certainly did. See, the body of water that is the Slate Fork of the Clinch River really looked as if it belonged in the foothills of the Olympic Mountains, not the Appalachians. The "water" was much too clear. Appalachian rivers carry a lot of sendiment, and so are typically an opaque olive green leaning toward brown. This point was driven home even more last month when I operated on Joe Green's superb C&O Ryder Gap layout, set in Virginia.

This week I "girded up my loins," and started mixing paint to get a good-looking color. The winning mix was about 10 parts acrylic brown, with 4 parts acrylic yellow, with about 1 part or so medium green to knock back the inherent orangish hue.

And here's the result:

Compare the above photos to this:



So with the paint completely dry, I grabbed a tube of acrylic titanium dioxide and started added evidence of fast-moving water and obstructions just under the surface, dry-brushing the white and building up the white with several brush strokes.

Tomorrow, I will apply the first coat of acrylic gloss medium.

[Allen]

Can't wait to see the gloss Paul.

[Russ C]

Good progress so far mate. The white water's going to look good.

[Paul S.]

Thank you, Warren K, Allen, and Russ C.

[Paul S.]

After adding the gloss medium coat, I dry-brushed some more white water in a few places. I won't add more gloss medium atop this, though.

The finished "new" Slate Fork looks like this:

A good improvement over its previous appearance I think. I'll know for certain when those who are native to Appalachian states visit!

[Paul S.]

Thank you, JerryZ.

One tip I should add for everyone: If you paint the streambed with acrylics, be VERY GENTLE when applying the acrylic gloss medium. Even though I use a very soft 1/2" brush for applying gloss medium, I have found overdoing the "swirling" or laying on of the gloss medium can sometimes reactivate the streambed color here and there.

[Karl]

This very much reminds me of the rivers in the Blue Ridge Mtns. Nice work on the upgrade!

[Paul S.]

Thank you, Karl . Your observation gives me some peace of mind.🙂 Modeling a locale I've not been to has been a challenge, but if I can get inside the ballpark and get to the right section and row, I might just find my seat, if you take the analogy.

[Paul S.]

Scenery work, of a sort, is continuing on the extension portion of the railroad. Despite camping this weekend out on the coast (near LaPush, Wash., the "Twilight" treaty line between vampires and werewolves), I did a piece of fascia cut.

I know, I know, there's nothing quite so inspirational to others as a piece of hardboard.

[john_plsn]

It may not seem to be a big step forward but you can better see where it matches your vision, or not.

[Allen]

Inspirational or not Paul, it's one more piece. Congrats!

[Paul S.]

Making progress on the fascia. I finally was able to install the last Digitrax UR90 receiver, which for months has been dangling under the layout from its Loconet and power cables!

The space to the right of the panel, about where the glue bottle stands, is reserved for the train register box and register cards.

The march westward with more fascia will continue.

[Paul S.]

After two aborted attempts with kits intended to be coal camp (company) houses in Slate Fork, VA, I finally went with what I knew I should've chosen at the start: I bought two Blair Line laser-cut company house kits.

I detest the small laser-cut window frames in kits such as this -- too much fiddling and fussing. So I replaced them with Tichy windows:

I also used a Tombow water-color pen to give the walls a grayish look in prep for "painting," which will entail streaking paint on the siding.

So far, so good. ...

[Allen]

👍

[Russ C]

Looks good so far Paul. Are you going to leave the walls unpainted?

[Paul S.]

@RussC , I've got the walls stained with gray, and next I'll drybrush paint onto them. I'm going after a look that says, "'These walls need painting."

[Paul S.]

Finally completed the two Blair Line houses for the Slate Fork coal camp. Frankly, I should just have scratchbuilt something out of styrene with Tichy doors and windows. It would have been easier.

Here they are. The second photo shows the base which I'll build a sort of diorama around them before installing on the layout.

The black background sure fools the camera, as the models' roof are a bit darker.

[Allen]

Those look good Paul! They should add to the overall layout rather nicely.
I think you'll need a still and a few pigs though?

[Russ C]

A good result Paul! A lot of aggrivation for you but the outcome is worth it.

[Paul S.]

Thanks, Russ C . A couple wonky piers to fix, I see. And a bit more effort on getting a stovepipe to stand vertical is needed. But they'll fit the bill.