The Carolina Sandhills Lines (HO)

[davefoxx]

Yeah, it’s going to take a while, Paul. I’ve glued the first two LEDs to the rear of headlight lenses. Here’s the set up, which takes about fifteen minutes for the adhesive to cure. I only have six to go, assuming they all work the first time.



Meanwhile, I replaced the Decoder Buddy Mini with a standard Decoder Buddy, to get that removable circuit board for the lighting at right on the motherboard.



DFF

[Allen]

Yeah, it’s going to take a while, Paul. I’ve glued the first two LEDs to the rear of headlight lenses. Here’s the set up, which takes about fifteen minutes for the adhesive to cure. I only have six to go, assuming they all work the first time.

Hey Dave, When I installed my LED's on my latest N scale locos, I was told to use Bondic to make lens (that I was missing on some) and also to use it to adhere the LED's to the back of the headlight glazing's. It dries clear. Best thing, if you need to remove it, you can just pop it off with a sharp tool.

Later another buddy found and introduced me to Let's Resin UV. This is better than Bondic, it dries clearer, hardens faster and actually has a better bond.
It's about the same price and you get more of it along with nice little flashlight.

How I use it: I get the LED bent into shape (remember I'm working in N scale, you remember how small that is right? LOL) and apply a small drop on the LED, then press it to the glazing and flash it with the light pen. Then I check to make sure it's aligned and working. If not, then I gently pop it off, pick the glue off and retry it. If it's good, then I squeeze a larger blob around the LED, wires and glazing, just enough to cover it all, flash it, then paint it all black.

No more holding the LED in place until the glue dries, and if it placed incorrectly, then just gently pop it off and try again.
It was a game changer for me. Sounds like it might work for you?

You can also use it to hold wires in place.

[davefoxx]

If this adhesive, Glue ‘n’ Glaze by Deluxe Materials, doesn’t work out this weekend, I’ll try to find that Let’s Resin UV. Thanks for the tip. Where were you a few days ago? Haha!

[Allen]

I was here! That door is still open and I'm still waiting by the way...

[davefoxx]

🤣

[davefoxx]

Two headlights down; six to go (a Gyra Light and emergency light on the nose, a second set of these lights on the long hood, and another pair of headlights on the rear).



DFF

[davefoxx]

Two more lights. Gonna need a crappy video to see these effects. In the video, you’ll see the low beam headlights over the cab, followed by the high beams. Then, on the nose, while the locomotive is stopped, the flashing red emergency light is displayed. Notice that only the light on our right is flashing. Once in motion, the clear Gyra Light (the bulb on our left) is flashing. Upon stopping, the red emergency light reactivates.

I apologize for the shell not being fully installed. This was for testing purposes only, and glue securing the wires in the nose is not fully cured. Oh, and as far as lights flashing in the cab, when that glue cures, it’ll get a coat of black paint to block the light.

DFF

[Allen]

Oh that’s too cool!

[Paul S.]

Cool effects, Dave! Now that really is a high hood!

Just a question, did the emergency red light come on with every brake-to-stop application, or only when the air was dumped as the locomotive was put into emergency braking?

[davefoxx]

I’m still researching it, but it appears that the red emergency light was lit during emergency braking and, per the SCL rules, when a train was stopped under circumstances in which the adjacent track may be fouled or when head end protection was required.