Installing an ISE Run-N-Smooth PowerKeeper

[Paul S.]

Item being shipped today. You can learn more about the device here: https://www.iascaled.com/store/Model...d/Run-N-Smooth

[Greg]

Paul,
What made you pick one of those up? The resident alien sent me the link,, they would come in handy for my sound locos..🤔🤔

[Paul S.]

I just happened to be perusing the ISE site and came across it, Greg. I've been considering adding stay-alives for a while, but was thinking of rolling my own. For the price and apparent ease of installation this one is worth a shot.

[Paul S.]

Digitrax is telling me that no keep alive is compatible with the DN163A0 decoders I use.

Not sure I'm going to accept that at face value, and I have asked Digitrax to explain in what way a non-TCS/non-Digitrax keep alive that does not require CV adjustment to enable is not compatible. The Run-N-Smooth is simply a power-keeping device and should be quite safe connecting to the decoder's common positive and ground negative.

[Michael Whiteman]

You are absolutely correct Paul. They are trying to discourage us because the solder pads for the Keep Alive wires are really small and probably buried in an inaccessible spot. You would have to install this on the output side of the bridge rectifier. I was looking at the circuit board in my TV today. All surface mount components installed by a robot. Ya gotta love this new technology. If anyone can wire one in it would be you. We expect to see pictures my friend.

[Paul S.]

Thanks, Michael. ISE has been very helpful; Digitrax has not, as demonstrated both in the tone of the replies I received from its technical support, the ignoring of my requests for a technical reason why a simple power keeper would not work, and ignoring my request for help identifying the bridge rectifier. Oh, well, I'll find the BR later if not sooner. That's what DVMs are for.

I was toying last weekend with the idea of installing my idled Digitrax equipment on the Slate Fork in lieu of purchasing an MRC wireless set. Not anymore.

I hope over Memorial Day weekend to rig up a test with a spare DN163A0 decoder and the RNS. Goal: keep the magic smoke in both.

[Mike H.]

Oh! I'm a bit late to the party ...
I use ceramic capacitors (SMD, 25V, 22µF) in series up to 6 for buffering my sound engines. Doesnt make them run forever without clean track, but lasts long enough to bridge some pickup problems.
Great about these - in case of failure they don't separate any fluids inside your models.

[Paul S.]

Yep, I'm resurrecting a thread almost four years old! Today I actually installed the Iowa Scaled Engineering Run-N-Smooth Powerkeeper.

I chose a well-used Atlas Geep equipped with a Digitrax DN163A4 decoder I'd already programmed to my usual speed table and accel/decel CVs. My first step was measuring the voltage across the "+" common pad and a "-" pad; I read 10.5 volts DC.

I soldered leads to the PK, blue wire to "+" and gray to "-" pads. Then I soldered the blue wire to the decoder's common "+" pad, and soldered the gray wire to the "-" pad.


I tucked the PK underneath the decoder above the right truck as shown below. No metal was touching metal or bridging the frames:



Before I describe what did -- and what didn't -- happen, I'll say it should not reflect on ISE unless I get other information.

When I put the locomotive on the rails and turned on the DCC, there were no beeps indicating a short and no smoke. Forward and reverse headlights worked. I ran the unit forward, no issues except maybe a bit of a fast start. In reverse, operation was smooth, but a bit of smoke was coming from the PK. Nothing was hot, however.

I took the loco back to the bench, checked the leads for bridging on the PK, resoldered the leads, then took the loco back to the layout. No smoke this time. Everything ran smoothly, but still a tad fast starting forward. So, to the program track to tweak forward trim. And then things got interesting . . .

After adjusting a couple settings, I tried moving the loco on the program track with the JMRI Decoder Pro throttle. Nothing. Headlights worked as intended, but no motor movement. After fooling around for a while, and thinking I may have damaged the decoder, I cut the leads to the PK, put the loco on the layout - and it's running fine as it was before I installed the PK.

So, any ideas or thought, anyone?

[Allen]

Yep, I'm resurrecting a thread almost four years old!

Oh the humanity Paul! How could you put us through that??? A thread that is almost four years old!! 😮🤬

Since the decoder ran fine after you detached the PK, I would hazard a guess that the smoke you saw came from the PK?
Any smoke from anything but a steamer is probably not a good thing?
Just a guess from a wood butcher.

[Allen]

An interesting side note for the community that I just stumbled across.
The size of the emoji faces are able to be resized!
I highlighted them, then chose a new font size. Viola! Now you can see them easier.

[Paul S.]

Since the decoder ran fine after you detached the PK, I would hazard a guess that the smoke you saw came from the PK?
Any smoke from anything but a steamer is probably not a good thing?
Just a guess from a wood butcher.

Most definitely. After removing the PK, the burn spot was easier to see.

Wish I had my cap tester.

[Uncle Pete's Basement]

So Digitrax was right that it's not compatible?

[Paul S.]

So Digitrax was right that it's not compatible?

I don't believe Digitrax had ever tested the ISE PowerKeeper to find out one way or the other.

Every decoder includes a bridge rectifier to convert the voltage waveform on the rails to DC. After the bridge is where keep-alives are installed using common "+" and the negative leg off the bridge.

I think the "-" pad, even though I read 10.5 VDC across it and the common "+" was not the correct place to solder it. My polarities were correctly matched, though.

Digitrax has upgraded its popular DN163A0, which is now out of production. The replacement DN147A0 includes keep-alive solder pads. Hopefully they'll do the same with the DN163A4.

The "cap+" and "cap-" pads are on the far lefthand corners of the board.

[Allen]

Is it the three pads right above the number Paul?

[Paul S.]

No, all the way over to left, Allen . The two pads, one on either side of the LED.

Looks like Digitrax also added a means to install different headlight LEDs -- the holes next to the SMD LEDs.

[Allen]

Ah! I see, the two very small tabs.
I bet those holes are for what you said? Probably for an extended LED to get closer to a headlight glazing or optional lighting like I've done recently, very cool!

[craigtownsend]

I always thought the caps went before the bridge? I have no clue as a battery guy it's all just one big capacitor. Definitely on my "need to know" if I go back into smaller scale knowledge bank. 😂

[Paul S.]

I always thought the caps went before the bridge? I have no clue as a battery guy it's all just one big capacitor. Definitely on my "need to know" if I go back into smaller scale knowledge bank. 😂

They'd never serve their purpose in front of the bridge, Craig. They'd just prove some degree of a nuisance to the waveform.

[craigtownsend]

Ahh and I was thinking that the purpose was to "fill in the gaps" of the waveform but I guess it makes sense.

See what I don't know. 😂 And happily admit I know very little about DCC. I kinda kicked myself in the butt for not keeping up with the Jones 20 years ago and stayed DC sound.

But ask me how to wire up a dead rail setup and I'll send you over a complicated wiring diagram before it goes the the motor leads of the decoder. 😂